Cumin-Lime Crema

Makes 2 cups

2 teaspoons cumin seeds

1 cup plain yogurt

1 cup sour cream

2 teaspoons kosher salt

2 limes

1. Toast the cumin in a small, dry heavy skillet over medium heat for about 1 minute, until its aromas hit your nose. Transfer to a spice grinder, let cool, then grind finely.

2. In a ceramic or glass bowl, whisk together the yogurt, sour cream, ground cumin and salt. Using a zester, grate the zest of the limes directly into the bowl. Add the lime juice (about 4 teaspoons) until well combined. Taste and adjust the seasoning with salt if needed. Serve now or store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 4 days.

-- Courtesy of Sara Deseran,"Tacolicious" (Ten Speed Press, $22, 212 pages)