It was one of those truly extraordinary fall days in the foothills of Highway 120, the "Gold Rush Gateway."

On our way to Yosemite National Park, my companion and I stopped off in the rustic burg of Groveland to see an old friend, Peter Barsotti, who "retired" from his rock 'n' roll days with Bill Graham Presents to become owner of the historic Iron Door Saloon.

Built in 1852, the Iron Door is the longest operating saloon in California and is a throwback to the Gold Rush era.

Across the street, the charming Hotel Charlotte offers a good night's stay in Groveland. Built in 1918 by Charlotte DeFerreri, the hotel housed the workers who were building the Hetch Hetchy Water Project that would supply water to San Francisco.

No Mother Lode country hotel worthy of the name is complete without a resident ghost with his or her own love story. Here, the story of the ghostly Charlotte "has been lost with time," explained innkeeper Lynn Upthagrove, "but many locals have told me a number of versions they say have been passed down from generation to generation."

Our own imagined versions kept us company at night. Then, in the morning, we enjoyed the complimentary full buffet breakfast that offered hotcakes, waffles, cereal, oatmeal, fresh fruit, yogurt, pastries and more. The dining room also is open for lunch and dinner.

In 2003, a restoration project added fresh paint and wallpaper, along with some new carpeting, bathroom tiles and

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wainscotting, to the 10 rooms.

Some rooms feature new period furniture, including beds and dressers, and all are equipped with air conditioning. Even with the upgrades, the hotel preserves its historical and romantic past.

Other amenities include high-speed Internet access, including wireless, and a well-stocked game room for both kids and adults.

Even with the seduction of Yosemite Valley but 24 miles up Highway 120, there is much to keep visitors in Groveland. Main Street embraces the atmosphere of a true Gold Country town, with a museum illustrating Groveland's colorful past. Anchored by the Iron Door Saloon and the Hotel Charlotte, there is a pervading sense of having gone back in time.

— Al Auger, correspondent

Take a peek
  • WHAT: Hotel Charlotte bed and breakfast inn, 18736 Main St., Groveland. 209-962-6455; www.hotelcharlotte.com.
  • QUICK TAKE: The hotel retains its charming past, with a few ghost stories interspersed, while offering the latest in comfort.
  • GOOD LOCATION FOR: A day and overnight stop for those heading to Yosemite. Close by is Pine Mountain Lake Marina with a golf course and Lake Don Pedro.
  • RATES: The hotel has 10 rooms with rates from $108 (two people) to $189 (up to four people); one room accepts pets for an extra $20. A condo suite and larger outbuildings are available for 4-12 persons (call for rates).