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A grilled filet with cherry red wine port reduction, caramelized shallots and truffle mushrooms served at the Magngia Mi restaurant in Danville, Calif., on Thursday, June 18, 2009. (Doug Duran/Staff)

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'May I have a bite?" the woman eyeing my lasagna at Danville's Mangia Mi asked, half-joking.

Apparently, she wasn't alone in her interest. Chef/owner Peter Cedolini says he sells 40 orders of lasagna everyday at his small restaurant.

Recession-busting crowds indicate that Cedolini is answering the call for comforting Italian favorites at reasonable prices. Everything about the food — from the ingredients to the prices — feels accessible. Wine bottle markups are low and the menu tops out with a $17 filet.

While the décor at Mangia Mi is contemporary, parts of the menu feel like a throwback to the 1950s, the decade when Americans first fell in love with Italian food. It's a place to become reacquainted with old friends, such as meatloaf, hand-rolled gnocchi and prosciutto Panini. With its mainstream focus, you won't find any braised rabbit or pasta with squid ink on the regular menu.

Cedolini, who formerly worked in finance, opened Mangia Mi to sell made-to-order, gourmet Italian takeout with families in mind. He quickly did a course correction, though, when customers insisted on dining in. Now only 30 percent or so of his business comes from takeout.

On my visit, Cedolini, an Italian Culinary Academy graduate, was ever-present in a button-down shirt and black pants, nimbly chatting with every table while also juggling kitchen responsibilities. Mangia Mi's menu is an amalgamation of

Shed turned restaurant

The 30-seat restaurant is actually a converted shed that was once part of a Hartz Avenue home. It's now a long and narrow contemporary space with an open kitchen anchored by bar seating. The modern feel is enhanced by exposed piping, simple hanging bulbs, stainless-steel chairs, concrete floors and white walls. A few framed posters hint at the Italian meal to come.

Mangia Mi attracts a wide swath of customers. I saw it packed with a graduation gathering, a double date and a family still in swim-team wear. Cedolini has intentionally left the wood tables bare; he worries that tablecloths will scare off families.

Lots of hard surfaces and close quarters make for a very loud room when the restaurant is busy. Cedolini says he is looking into solutions. In the meantime, the 20 seats outside are a better bet for a quieter meal.

Almost tomato season

With tomato season barreling in, we are almost in prime Bruschetta ($10) time. Mangia Mi's colorful take came with oven-roasted yellow and red tomatoes and basil chiffonade. The tomato mound and crostini were delicious and beautiful, but it was tough to daintily eat this rough-and-tumble version. Other antipasti choices include marinated olives and an artisan salami-and-cheese plate.

If you go on a Saturday, I recommend the special Salad of the Day ($10). All of the ingredients are procured at the morning farmers market nearby. Our salad was a lovely combination of field greens with blackberries, candied walnuts, Gorgonzola and paper-thin slices of pear. It was big enough for two to share.

Mangia Mi offers six varieties of pizza ranging from a basic margherita to a wild mushroom with truffle oil. The pear and Gorgonzola pizza ($14 small, $20 large) was perfectly cooked with a crispy, just slightly charred crust, more gorgeous pears and soft strands of caramelized onions. As good as it was, the Gorgonzola became overwhelming after a piece or two, so this pizza may work best as a shared appetizer rather than an entree.

Evening's winner

The evening's winner was the Lasagna di Carne ($12). It's made with fresh pasta, loads of mozzarella, Bolognese sauce and a layer of béchamel all of which ooze freely over the plate. I'd been feeling lasagna burnout lately, but this dish reminded me how completely satisfying this classic can be.

Almost as memorable was the Melanzana Parmigiana ($12), a hearty stack of thinly sliced, breaded eggplant rounds. We loved the flavor but wished both the lasagna and the eggplant had arrived hotter. Other entree options were a Chicken Breast, Citrus-marinated Shrimp and a Stuffed Bell Pepper.

For a side, the simple sauteed spinach ($5) is a must-try, as it shows how just a little garlic and olive oil make this green so tasty. For dessert, we were lured in by fresh strawberries and a bread-like shortcake ($6), which came with a generous dollop of homemade whipped cream.

Though the restaurant was busy, our server never rushed us and graciously adjusted to our relaxed pace. We left content.

Cedolini says Mangia Mi's business model is still evolving, but he has an eye out for a second location. He's looking into Lafayette, which coincidentally already has a restaurant named Mangia. Wherever he lands next, he's onto something here, serving up classic Italian favorites at a fair price.

Contact Chrissa Ventrelle at cventrel@hotmail.com.