A lamb is a sheep that's less than a year old. It used to be, when people lived more rustic lives, that springtime was lamb time because, following the sheep's natural cycle, that's

when lamb was most plentiful. Fresh lamb couldn't be had any other time of year.

Nowadays, fresh lamb and spring lamb have become synonymous — even though lamb is available year-round.

So why is spring a particularly great time to enjoy lamb? It could just be habit, or a response to advertising. Either way, it's a nice dish to serve for spring holidays such as Easter and Passover. And it goes so well with other springtime goodies like asparagus and mint.

Whatever your reason, treat yourself.

A rack of lamb is the perfect dinner for two. It cooks up quick enough to serve on a weeknight, but it's elegant enough for a romantic supper. Cook two or three racks for a bigger party.

A leg of lamb is also a wonderful thing.

When I was single and my mother visited, we always cooked ourselves a leg of lamb slathered in olive oil, paprika and cumin seeds. It's too big for one, but just right for three or four — or for two over the course of a few days. We'd have it one night for dinner, then as sandwiches with Dijon mustard and arugula for the rest of the visit.

You can also ask your butcher to butterfly a leg of lamb for you.

Then

Lamb also makes a delicious spring stew with white beans, carrots, and parsnips, perhaps. You can even enjoy ground lamb, in any number of African or Middle Eastern recipes, but also as a good ol' American lamb-burger.

Shockingly, some people don't like lamb, my husband being one of them. I can only guess it's because they onceunknowingly tried imported lamb, which tends to have a gamier flavor, and they never gave lamb a second chance.

But that's okay, honey. It just makes me look forward to the next time Mom is here.

Rack of Lamb with

Meyer Lemon-Mint

Compote

For locally raised,

sustainably farmed lamb, look for meat from Niman Ranch, or visit www.

nimanranch.com.

4 Meyer lemons

1/2 cup olive oil

8 cloves garlic, crushed

1 tablespoon plus

1/4 teaspoon kosher salt

1 teaspoon fresh ground pepper

2 racks of lamb, frenched (see note)

1 tablespoons crisp white wine

1/4 cup sugar

2 tablespoons packed fresh mint leaves

Juice two of the Meyer lemons until you have 1/4 cup. In a small bowl, combine juice with olive oil, garlic, 1 tablespoon of the salt, and pepper. Pour marinade into a 1-gallon resealable bag. Add lamb and seal, removing as much air as possible. Refrigerate overnight.

In a medium saucepan, combine wine, sugar and mint leaves; heat until boiling. Remove from heat and let steep for 30 minutes. Strain and return syrup to saucepan.

Using a vegetable peeler, zest remaining two lemons. Place zest in a food processor. Cut remaining peel from lemons and discard. Holding fruit over the food processor to catch any juices, remove the seeds. Add fruit to food processor and pulse to coarsely chop. Add lemons to wine mixture, bring to a boil and cook until reduced to 3/4 cup, about 10 minutes. Stir in 1/4 teaspoon salt. Cool to room temperature. (Meyer lemon-mint compote can be made ahead; allow to come to room temperature before serving.)

Remove lamb from refrigerator, pat dry, and allow to come to room temperature. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. In a large ovenproof skillet over high heat, sear racks on both sides, about 4 minutes per side. Transfer skillet to oven and cook until internal temperature reaches 130 degrees, about 10 minutes. Remove from oven, place lamb on a cutting board and allow to rest for 5 minutes (internal temperature will rise 5 to 10 degrees during this time). Cut into chops and serve 3 to 4 per person with a dollop of compote on top or along side. Pass any remaining compote at the table.

Serves 4.

Nutrition information cannot be accurately calculated.

Quick Cuisine, runs the first and third Wednesdays of the month. Jill Silverman Hough is a Napa-based recipe developer, food writer and culinary instructor. To share your tips and techniques for making food that's simple yet special, e-mail Jill at jill@jillhough.com.