Cookbook review: "Hors d'Oeuvre at Home with the Culinary Institute of America"

Related

• May 6:
• Recipe: Spinach and Artichoke Dip
• Recipe: Vegetable and Tofu Antipasti

The following review is by a reader who was given a cookbook from this newspaper. The included recipes were selected and prepared by the reader.

"Hors d'Oeuvre at Home with the Culinary Institute of America" is a handsome book, with beautiful photographs and a good balance between text and white space. Beyond the simple question of "What should I serve?" the authors address the concern of "How should it be served?" Table arrangement and serving dish suggestions would come in handy for a party.

Recipes are grouped into seven categories, including skewered, stuffed, and bite-size desserts. The recipes range from the relatively simple — deviled eggs and spiced nuts — to more time-consuming recipes such as terrines and tartlets. As a vegetarian, I was pleased to find so many varied vegetarian recipes.

I am not a natural cook — I don't have an innate sense of seasoning — but I can follow directions. As such, recipes are my good friends. I tried five from this book.

The Spicy White Bean and Avocado Dip, a variation on guacamole, was well-received once I assured the testers that the white cannellini beans were not entire cloves of garlic. The Spinach and Artichoke Dip was a real hit, although probably better for sitting (rather than standing-and-mingling affairs). The Vegetable and Tofu Antipasti was my favorite of the bunch. Mushrooms a la Grecque was satisfying to make, but ultimately not

In testing recipes, I noticed that the Culinary Institute and I tended to disagree on portion size. The recipe for the avocado dip did produce 2 cups, but after making it, I realized that 2 cups of dip is a rather paltry amount for a party. By contrast, the antipasti claims to serve six, but I would estimate the recipe to serve at least 12.

I also took issue with the directions in some of the recipes. The Mushrooms a la Grecque boded well, as it called for a "very large sachet" of fresh herbs, garlic and red pepper flakes, but after simmering in the olive oil, white wine vinegar, water and honey, the mushrooms had lost their fresh texture.

I've enjoyed this book and look forward to trying more of the recipes, but I will keep in mind that some of the directions may need editing, and the resulting number of servings is likely to be a surprise. What I especially appreciate about this book is that it offers sophisticated flavor combinations that go far beyond the standard garlic, basil and oregano combination I am used to. Experimenting with new flavors is part of the fun.

Want to be a critic? We'll give you a new cookbook to review. Contact jthym@bay areanewsgroup.com.