Font ResizeTHERE WAS a time, perhaps 20 years ago, when a Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon was one of my "house wines." It was inexpensive enough for everyday drinking, and the quality was better than average. But in subsequent years, I found myself less and less impressed by Cabernet from Chile.
Then along came some high-end cabs and cab blends from wineries such as Montes and Concha y Toro, as well as wines created by joint ventures between Chilean producers and foreign wineries like Mondavi. The wines were good, but they were also pricey.
Consumers expect a lot from a bottle of wine that costs $50 or more, and these wines didn't always deliver.
I've tasted a lot of Chilean Cabernets and cab blends over the past few months, and I think that quality is improving at all price levels. Sure, I've sampled some clunkers, but many of the inexpensive wines are great values, and some of the top-end bottles offer world-class quality.
Cabernet is Chile's most widely planted grape, accounting for about a third of the country's vineyard acreage and 40 percent of its red grape plantings. Most Cabernet comes from Chile's vast Central Valley (labels will often say "Valle Central"). Grapes that go into the less-expensive wines tend to be grown in deep, fertile soils where the vines can support a large crop. Because the vines are so vigorous in such sites, Chilean Cabernet has, in the past, sometimes suffered from an excessively
Take the 2007 Cono Sur Cabernet Sauvignon ($10). It has a hint of herbaceousness, but that's balanced by the ample bright cherry fruit. The 2006 Montes "Classic Series" Cabernet Sauvignon ($13) is one of my favorites in this price range, with its bright black cherry fruit, notes of mocha and spice and firm structure. The 2006 Alcance Cabernet Sauvignon ($14) offers plump black cherry flavors, accented by white pepper, vanilla and spice; the tannins are substantial, so drink it with something hearty. The 2005 Casa Lapostolle Cabernet Sauvignon ($12) is another good choice, displaying ripe black cherry, a hint of anise and firm structure. The 2006 Calcu ($13) is a Cabernet-dominant blend with ripe cherry and roasted coffee flavors. It benefits from some air, so consider decanting it.
For a little more money, there's the 2005 Carmen "Nativa" Cabernet Sauvignon ($16.50), which has a nice purity to the black cherry fruit, along with notes of eucalyptus and mocha. The 2005 Casa Lapostolle "Cuvee Alexandre" Cabernet Sauvignon ($25) is full-bodied and just a touch earthy. I also liked the 2005 Montes Alpha Cabernet Sauvignon ($23), which is full-bodied and ripe, with firm but approachable tannins.
The higher-end wines tend to be from more well-defined locations, sometimes single vineyards. The 2005 Almaviva ($80), for example, a joint venture between Baron Philippe de Rothschild of France and Chile's Concha y Toro, is from the Puente Alto section of the Maipo Valley. Cabernet dominates the blend, which is ripe and dark, with black cherry, cassis and a fair amount of oak. Give it some time. The 2005 Concha y Toro "Don Melchor" Cabernet Sauvignon ($70), also from Puente Alto, is dense and dark, with bright black cherry and hints of cedar, mint and earth. The 2003 De Martino "Gran Familia" Cabernet Sauvignon ($55), another Maipo Valley wine, offers concentrated cherry flavors, nice spice and firm structure.
The cab-dominant 2005 Montes Alpha M ($98) is from an area farther south called Apalta. It's a tremendous wine, with dark, dense, ripe black cherry fruit, generous oak and firm structure. Although it's way too young, it shows great promise. And the 2005 Errazuriz Don Maximiano Founder's Reserve ($59), also a cab-based blend, is from an area north of Santiago called the Aconcagua Valley. The wine is dark and concentrated, with black cherry and berry fruit, firm structure and just a tinge of dried herbs.
BEWARE THE HEAT: As I write this, it's about 100 degrees outside. So it seemed like a good time for a reminder that heat is the enemy of wine.
When you expose a bottle of wine to excessive heat, the liquid inside expands and can leak out around the cork or even push the cork out of the bottle, which allows oxygen to get into the bottle. The heat will also start changing the aromas and flavors of the wine.
The lesson here? Don't leave wine in a hot car. If you know you'll be transporting wine, put it in a cooler or other insulated container. You never seem to be able to find a shady parking space when you need it, and that seems to be especially true when you're visiting winery tasting rooms. (Despite the warnings in the tasting rooms about how they won't be responsible for damage to your wine caused by heat.) If you're storing wine in your house, keep it in the coolest place possible. Unless you have temperature-controlled storage, your best bet is the floor of an interior, downstairs closet. Ever seen those wine racks built into a kitchen cabinet near the stove? That's about the worst place you can store wine.
Finally, be sure to serve wine at the proper temperature. For white wines, it's not a bad idea to have a bucket of ice handy. Even red wines will often benefit from brief chilling. When red wine is served too warm, the tannins and alcohol become even more obvious.
Contact Laurie Daniel at ladaniel@earthlink.net.
